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Post-inflammatory Erythema (PIE) is the new skincare vocabulary rave. But what exactly is PIE, and how do you minimize its effects? Post-inflammatory erythema happens after your skin has been traumatized so much that it leaves behind dilated blood vessels. The injury to the skin, which is sensitive, is so extensive that the capillaries in our skin dilate so much to try to fix it. This dilation is called inflammation. The inflammation eventually goes down in a month depending on the extent of the injury. But it leaves behind dark marks, and soon after it leaves red spots on the skin. But since these are dilated vessels, skincare targeting inflammatory or hyperpigmentation is not the fix. But the following tips can help reduce them and eventually get rid of them.PUT DOWN THE DARK SPOT REMOVER After months of applying a face mask and peels targeted towards lightening dark marks, none are truly helpful in removing the problem. All of these masks have AHA, BHA, or strong acids which do not help the PIE. Rather, they make the inflammation slightly worse and contribute to breakouts because you are putting irritating ingredients on top of healing skin. Breakouts happen more frequently when you are using these ingredients when you do not need to. Acne breakouts are inflammatory conditions and cannot be treated with these dark spot removers.STOP ANY LASER TREATMENTS Laser hair removal is great to minimize acne scars and remove hair. However, when you are struggling with PIE, lasers need to be stopped. Every time you fire a laser on the skin, the hair follicles get inflamed and red. This does not help PIE but rather it adds to the inflammation.ICE YOUR FACE This is a rather simple idea but the benefits help. A cold temperature, best used right after the injury, will constrict the blood vessels preventing them from getting larger and having them show on the skin's surface. Ice will help smooth the inflammation. Inflammation adds heat on the face (in small amounts), but overall inflammation is harmful. One of the key characteristics of inflammation is redness and heat.WORK ON YOUR SKIN BARRIER The best thing to do with PIE is to work on your skin barrier. This is a key aspect of healing your skin. Put down the harsh peels, lasers, retinol, etc., and instead reach for natural facial oil and a light moisturizer. Healing the skin barrier decreases breakouts resulting from harsh chemicals and irritation and will decrease redness from the injury. Doing a simple skincare routine can sometimes be the best thing for your face. Irritation causes breakouts, which will not be fixed by benzoyl peroxide or by any other face wash. Stick with a simple routine: warm cloth, followed by facial oil, and sunscreen. Facial oils have amazing healing properties and soothe inflammation, which is the hidden condition behind all the acne marks present and past

TIPS FOR PIE

Everything You Need to Know About Fraxel Laser TreatmentsIf you're considering laser treatments for pitting acne scars, hyperpigmentation, or fine lines and wrinkles, you might have come across Fraxel laser. It’s one of the most popular options available today, but it comes with a hefty price tag of around $1,000 for just a few sessions. Is it worth it? Let’s dive into how it works and what you can expect from the results.How Does Fraxel Laser Work?Fraxel laser treatments work by intentionally damaging scarred skin, encouraging new growth and tissue to fill in those pesky pitting acne scars. Here’s a quick overview of the procedure:Numbing Cream: Before your session, a numbing cream is applied to minimize discomfort during the treatment. The Treatment: The laser creates hundreds of tiny pricks in your skin, which will eventually form scabs 1-2 hours post-treatment. These microthermal treatment zones penetrate the skin to a depth of 1.5mm to 1.7mm, stimulating healing from within. This means it not only addresses the surface but also works deeper to generate new collagen. Targeting Acne: For those struggling with acne, Fraxel can also target oil glands, effectively killing the bacteria that contribute to blackheads and clogged pores. My Experience with Fraxel LaserI had my first Fraxel laser facial just a week ago, and I’m still in the healing process. Here’s what I’ve experienced so far:Immediate Aftermath: Right after the treatment, my face felt burning and looked red, but thankfully, that subsided after about 45 minutes. Scabbing: Within 1-2 hours, my skin developed tiny scabs, which have been gradually falling off throughout the week. However, I can still see dark marks beneath these scabs. Active Acne: My provider treated areas with active breakouts, but I found that the procedure didn’t completely eliminate the pimples or speed up their healing. Instead, it seems like they’re going through the usual healing phases, with some swelling still lingering beneath the surface. Final ThoughtsWhile many medspas and providers promote Fraxel for its effectiveness against hyperpigmentation, my personal results haven't aligned with those claims. After this experience, I’m hesitant to consider this treatment again. The journey of healing has been a rollercoaster, and I expected more noticeable improvements for the cost. This is best for pitting acne scars, but nothing else.&nbsp;If you’re exploring options for treating acne scars or pigmentation issues, it’s essential to weigh the costs against the potential results. Always consult with a trusted provider and consider whether the treatment aligns with your goals and expectations

IS FRAXEL Laser Treatments Worth it ?

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Adding “icing” to your weekly routine may be more beneficial than you think. I also believed facial icing was just a gimmick at first because it was just changing the temperature of your face. &nbsp;But icing gives your face and acne the chance to reduce inflammation, and soothe the skin after extracting. And soothing the skin is an essential step in reducing signs of inflammation causing the redness on your skin and future hyperpigmentation marks. Circulation and inflammation work hand and hand.&nbsp; Decreases circulation &nbsp; When ice is applied to the face, it will decrease circulation to the area by causing the blood vessels &nbsp;to constrict, thus decreasing inflammation. When the process of inflammation starts, blood immediately rushes to that area, even if it is a small pimple. This leads to the red appearance of the skin and feels soreness in that area. &nbsp;However the cold stops this from happening reducing redness and acne scarring. Applying the cold defers the blood circulating to that area.&nbsp; Soothes signs of inflammations&nbsp; When cold temperatures are present, blood does not rush to the acne as quickly. Like stated before, the blood vessels constrict ( shrink) causing a decrease of blood flood to the surface of the skin which can give a congested swollen appearance. When the skin is destroyed from picking or scratching a rush of blood cells appear to the sight to fix the broken skin. When the area is swollen the more red it appears.&nbsp;

ICE MASK

DERMALOGICA &nbsp;PowerBright dark spot peel is the one product that was one hundred percent worth my splurge of eighty dollars and it is clinically proven to reduce the appearance of dark marks in just three uses. &nbsp;However, all skincare needs more than three uses before seeing actual results. But it has shown more promising results then other post acne mark creams such as FADED TOPICALS or other popular Vitamin C serum on the market. &nbsp;After three weeks of consistency, it was able to reduce my dark marks, inflammation, and serve acne breakouts. The PowerBright mask has a list of both natural ingredients and active ingredients that work well together in combating the targeted issues. After using this product, I strongly recommend leaving out all other creams with active ingredients and to rather finish with a sunscreen or facial oil to prevent mixing too many chemicals together. Even consider a gentle face wash with natural ingredients or just plain hot water and a face rag.&nbsp; The list of natural ingredient is include the following&nbsp;1. Shea butter - softens dry skin&nbsp; 2. Lactobacillus Pumpkin ferment filtrate - used to skincare and created by fermenting pumpkins fruit and lactobacillus ( rod shaped bacteria), helps calm the skin. Fermenting process works by breaking the sugars in the organism when there is a lack of oxygen&nbsp; 3. Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) butter - gives a hydrolipidic later and improves antioxidant defense system, it allows the skin to retain water&nbsp; 4. Chinensis (jojoba) seed oil- absorbs easily into the skin&nbsp; 5. Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil- reduces the aging process by minimizing free radicals and their possible damage. Reduces inflammation and swelling. Helps brighten the skin and is a source of Vitamin C&nbsp; 6. Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil - type of citrus that soothes acne and inflamed skin and reduces bacteria on the skin&nbsp; 7. Citrus Limon (Lemon) Peel Oil- firms the skin elasticity&nbsp; 8. Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Peel Oil- high concentration of vitamin C, reduces bacteria on the skin as well as inflammation and redress&nbsp; 9.Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil- can potentially reduce dark spots but mainly used for moisture, filled with fatty acids. 10.Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Oil- removes pigmentation and anti aging, anti bacterial, and anti inflammatory&nbsp; 11. Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil - contributes to even skin tone and reduces the signs on inflammation&nbsp; 12. Jasminum Sambac (Jasmine) Flower Extract- increase collagen synthesis and elastin&nbsp; 13.Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil- mainly a moisturizer and reduces inflammation 14. Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract - non comedogenic, stops the growth of bacteria. Inhibits the production of melanin and has microcirculation properties.&nbsp; 15. Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil- hydrates the skin 16.Isochrysis Galbana Extract- marine microalgae its extract is rich in fatty acids, loaded with nutrients and antioxidants. In skin care it will improve hydration, reduce inflammation and promote collagen synthesis 17.Nannochloropsis Gaditana extract- a group of green microalgae high in chlorophyll a and protects the skin from oxidative stress which is the imbalance of free radicals that lead to cell damage.&nbsp; 18. Ilex Paraguariensis Leaf Extra- rich in antioxidants and reduces inflammation and helps with complexion 19. Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Seed Oil- used in treating dry skin and improves the look of wrinkles. The antioxidant help release radicals from the skin and other dry skin conditions&nbsp; &nbsp;20. Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract- antimicrobial properties and soothes inflammation&nbsp; 21. Dipteryx Odorata Seed Extract- from the Tonka beans of the Tonka bean tree. Antioxidant that evens out skin complexion and ease the signs of melasma and other hyperpigmentation&nbsp; The list of chemical ingredients include the following&nbsp;1.Glycerin- pulls water out from the deep layer of the skin into the top layers commonly used with occlusives which traps the water on the skin. &nbsp; 2. Butylene Glycol - type of alcohol but does not dry out the skin, it moisturizes, protects, and conditions the skin and hair.&nbsp; 3. Glycolic acid - colorless, odorless compound helps exfoliate the skin and reverse sun damage. 4. Used for aging, acne, and hyperpigmentation.&nbsp; polysorbate 20 - good for sensitive skin helps the product emulsifying and smooth texture of the product. Can be termed as a carcinogen due to the possible contamination of 1,4 Dioxane while manufacturing. But heavy filtration makes this safe for everyday use&nbsp; 5. Niacinamide - form of the B3 vitamin, found in meat and vegetables and helps hydrate the skin, increase skin elasticity, and reduce redness.&nbsp; &nbsp;6. Glycerin acid copolymer - helps with moisture&nbsp; 7. Gluconolactone - acid that hydrates the skin and exfoliates.good for people with sensitive skin&nbsp; 8. Phytic acid - acid found in plant based foods such as beans, seeds and tofu. Helps reduce the appearances of stretch marks, dark spots, and scars. This is a plants based chemical exfoliant&nbsp; 9. Mandelic Acid - chemical compound trigger exfoliation and contributes to a brighter complexion&nbsp; 10. Sodium Hydroxide - alkaline that is extremely irritating in the pure form. In beauty products it is used to balance out the pH.&nbsp; 11. Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine - Makes a quick skin firming effect and improves fine lines&nbsp; &nbsp;12. Hectorite - used to thicken the product&nbsp; &nbsp;13. Behenyl Alcohol -fatty alcohol and not drying like other alcohol 14. Arachidyl alcohol- safe for use under 30 percent and holds products indigents from separating.&nbsp; 15. Tranexamic Acid - heals hyperpigmentation. Usually antifibrinolytic which prevent bleeding&nbsp; 16.Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate - sebum regulating and soothes irritation but only in the right formulas and percentages&nbsp; 17.Glyceryl Stearate - typical usages of 1-10 percent. Moisturizes the skin by preventing water loss&nbsp; 18. Lauryl Alcohol - product enhancer&nbsp; &nbsp;19. Ethoxydiglycol - commonly for perfuming and humelenct, helps improve penetration.&nbsp; 20. Arachidyl glucoside - emulsifier helps oil and water to mix&nbsp; 21. Palmitic acid- builds up the lipid barrier on the skin and protects the skin from microbes and bacteria.&nbsp; 22. Myristyl alcohol - non comedogenic used as a thickener and emulsion ( mixture of 2+ ingredients that will becomes homogeneous )&nbsp; 23. Bisabolol - decrease redness and inflammation. Helps those with rosacea and rashes 24. Polyquaternium-80 - thickening agent&nbsp; &nbsp;25. Didecyldimonium chloride - helps cleanse the skin&nbsp; 26. Beta-sitosterol - occurs in many seeds and vegetables similar to cholesterol, when its applied it is a good moisturizing ingredient&nbsp; &nbsp;27.Xanthan Gum- derived from natural ingredients &nbsp;and does not clog pores. Thickening agents and texture enhancer&nbsp; 28. Methylpropanediol - formula thicker&nbsp; 29. Cetyl alcohol - emollient ( moisturizer) and thickener&nbsp; 30. Titanium dioxide - often used in sunscreens to reflect the UVA and UVB rays&nbsp; 31. Citric acid - not vitamin C, but often mistaken for vitamin C. This is an exfoliant and corrects signs of aging&nbsp; 32. Stearic Acid- non comedogenic and hydrates the skin, good for acne prone skin&nbsp; 33.Hydroxyethyl- cellulose - makes products easier to apply on the skin and hair&nbsp; 34. Cistus Ladaniferus Resin- promotes healing on minor cuts 35. Styrax Benzoin Resin Extract- protects the skin from water loss, soothes irritated skin. 36. Accelerates healing of cuts. 37. Sodium Benzoate- antifungal and anti aging products and increases shelf life of the product&nbsp; 38. Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate- used to improve the formulas texture and stability, including penetration of the product to the skin &nbsp;39. Potassium Sorbates- antibacterial and antifungal. Prolongs the shelf life&nbsp; 40. Limonene- chemical compound found in the rhines of fruit, fragrance and cleanse the skin. After reviewing the formula, it seems this product tackles hyperpigmentations and other acne concerns from both the natural side and the chemical side. There are about less than seven ingredients that are labeled as carcinogens and have strict &nbsp;percentages. But over all the price for the produce is worth it because it matches the quality ingredients.&nbsp; Refernces&nbsp;Skincare ingredients A–Z. (2022, November 26). Byrdie. https://www.byrdie.com/skincare-ingredients-glossary-480055Skin care Ingredient Dictionary | Paula’s Choice. (n.d.). Paula’s Choice Skincare. https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary

DERMALOGICA Powerbright darkspot peel

&nbsp;After receiving the WORST facial of my life, my skin is still healing nearly six months after. This esthetician squeezed and pinched my skin until I was left with many red marks that resembled bug bites. It wasn’t until I went to another esthetician downtown NYC, who was very knowledgeable about colored skin, that she told me inflammation leads to hyperpigmentation, and the more I pinched at my skin, the more dark spots will develop. INJURY&nbsp;Injuries to the skin include picking of the skin and the intensity of pressure placed on the skin. Melanocytes are the type of cells in our skin essentially giving color, and when the skin is inflamed these melanocytes develop. Inflammation is apart of the body’s defense system. Our skin as a whole recognizes trauma to the body and initiates healing and removal of these harmful substances. Inflammation on the skin can appear red, itchy and sore to the touch. &nbsp;The strength of the injury dictates how extensive the hyperpigmentation will be. If the clog pore you are extracting is superficial to the skin and removes easily, a dark spot will not develop. However, if the pore you are extracting is deep in the tissue and requires an immense amount of pressure, a dark spot will develop. And depending on the &nbsp;amount of pressure placed, and deeper the dark spot will develop into the skin delaying the healing time.&nbsp; HOW MELNOCYTES FORM&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; All melanocytes reside in the basal layer of the epidermis, which is the deepest layer of the skin. &nbsp;Pigment production starts off the pituitary gland and is regulated by Melanocyte Stimulating Hormone, which is a peptide hormone. This hormone stimulates intra melanocytic organelles. An increase of this hormone is triggered by cell injury. &nbsp;The pigment is then transferred to the surrounding keratinocytes that distribute it to the superficial layers of the skin.&nbsp;Melanogenesis is a regular process that gives rise to two types of melanin, Eumelanin and melanin to protect against UV rays. This whole process is dependent on tyrosine, which is an amino acid substrate. This enzyme is then broken apart by tyrosinase to form L- 3,4-Dihydrooxphenlylalnine ( DOPA) . When DOPA is oxidized ( combined with oxygen) &nbsp;it produces Pheomelanin which is seen in fair skin. Further oxidation of DOPA results in Eumelanin. Pheomelanin produces a higher concentration of free radicals in response to UVR , causing an increase of skin cancer in fair skin people. In darker skin, inflammation leading to hyperpigmentation is more common because of the skin cells activity. Melansomal pH in darker skin is neutral which is optimal for melanogenesis.&nbsp; ABNORMAL PIGMENTATION and INFLAMMATION&nbsp;&nbsp;SKin injury and trauma to the skin from acne picking induce an inflammatory response. Nitric oxide ( free radical) is released after damage along with other cell mediators. Macrophages are a huge mediator in the cell injury process. The melanin that is produced from injury is engulfed by macrophages which hold the melanin in the dermis until they degrade or get shredded from the skin. This enables the dark spot to remain visible months after post injury.&nbsp; &nbsp; SOURCE&nbsp; EncyclopÃ¦dia Britannica, inc. (n.d.). Melanocyte. EncyclopÃ¦dia Britannica. https://www.britannica.com/science/melanocyte&nbsp; Chadwick, S., Heath, R., &amp; Shah, M. (2012, May). Abnormal pigmentation within cutaneous scars: A complication of wound healing. Indian journal of plastic surgeryâ€¯: official publication of the Association of Plastic Surgeons of India. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3495392/#:~:text=Cutaneous%20injuries%20invoke%20an%20inflammatory,to%20the%20site%20of%20injury.&nbsp; Hyperpigmentation and the sun: Sun protection. Eucerin. (n.d.). https://int.eucerin.com/skin-concerns/sun-protection/hyperpigmentation-and-the-sun#:~:text=Small%2C%20darkened%20patches%20of%20skin,by%20making%20then%20even%20darker

INFLAMMATION CAUSES HYPERPIGMENTATION

Everyone is used to seeing the word ‘ ANTIOXIDANT’ across food packaging. But what does it actually mean, and how does it relate to our health? And how do they work once we eat them? Antioxidants are molecules found in plant based food and they help the body fight off free radicals that contribute to cancer. For our skin, these antioxidants help protect the skin from oxidative damage such as UV damage which can cause premature aging.&nbsp; ANTIOXIDANT BACKROUND&nbsp; Antioxidants help balance oxidative stress. Oxidative stress occurs when there is an imbalance of unstable molecules, called free radicals. The body produces free radicals through cellular metabolism. Overall, increased oxidative stress damages tissue, proteins and other cells in the body. When it gets neutralized, it reduces damage to the body. Antioxidants delay damage due to its free radical scavenging property. This property contains compounds that remove the free radicals by inhibiting lipid peroxidation, spin trapping, or increasing GSH which helps repair tissue.Fruits and vegetables consist of high levels of Vitamin A,C, and E. These are all antioxidants and reduce inflammation. Blueberries, strawberries, and blackberries all contain high amounts of Phenolic acid which is absorbed in the GI tract and helps fight off damage. Phenolic and polyphenolic are the common antioxidants found in fruits and vegetables and are really the key in reducing oxidative stress.&nbsp;Antioxidants neutralize free radicals by disrupting the chain reactions. This helps reduce UV ray damage. It overall protects the skin leading to more collagen production (remember UV rays kill collagen) and stops the formation of melanocytes which can lead to skin cancer. Reducing free radicals takes strain off of your immune system. When the immune system works less it’sable to heal the skin rather than organs inside the body.&nbsp; PHENOLIC ACID FOR SKIN&nbsp; Phenolic Acids are synergistic with other antioxidants. Combined it enhances the skin. When Phenolic Acid is combined with Vitamin C or E, if amplifies its effects.Specifically for the skin, it can help brighten and firm the skin, reduce fine lines, and protect collagen. FOODS AS ANTIOXIDANTS 1. Green Tea is a high antioxidant. In skincare products it’s listed as Camellia sinensis leaf extract. Green tea contains high amounts of Polyphenols.&nbsp; 2. Dark Chocolate - The darker the chocolate the more packed it is with antioxidants. Dark chocolate’s benefits come from its high concentration of cocoa directly from the cocoa plant. Plants, leaves, and fruits are the primary source of antioxidants.&nbsp; 3. Kale is vitamin packed. It is rich in Vitamin A, K, and C. &nbsp;