DR. DENNIS GROSS AHA PADS

Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Universal Daily pads Extra Strength two step exfoliant had been the best product to use before the menstrual cycle to minimize pimples and dark marks that amplify before the period. This product is a two step AHA/BHA pre-dosed pads that includes five acids and twelve antioxidants to help smooth lines, shrink pores, and help with blocked pores. AHA and BHA are the most popular products for treating blackheads and acne.  Even though it is stated it is for all skin types, the ingredients suggest it would work better for combination and oily skin. 

The first pad’s key ingredients are glycolic acid, potassium hydroxide, Citric Acid, Malic Acid, Benzoic acid.The first highlighted ingredient is glycolic acids (ADA). Lactic acid and Malic Acid are types of ADA and are all chemical exfoliants.  ADA is a derivative of sugarcane and it is an alpha hydroxy acid. Glycolic acid works  by exfoliating the top layer of dead skin which helps reduce the appearance of dark marks. It also reduces sun damage by increasing cell turnover. Glycolic acid has smaller molecules that penetrate deeper into the skin. The key factor of this acid is breaking the connections of dead skin cells. It helps by improving skin texture, reducing fine lines, and building collagen and elastin, and fading dark marks.  Glycolic acid will make the skin more sensitive and can cause UV damage.

Lactic Acid is the most commonly paired with glycolic acid. Lactic acid is naturally synthesized in the body after exercise. Lactic Acid is an organic acid.  In short, Lactic acid boosts hydration . When it is synthesized in the body it regulates inflammation and produces energy for the cells which increase the rate of cellular mechanisms.After the cells take care of functioning well, it makes it easier for the cells to contribute to beauty. 

Malic acid is another organic compound and it is used for acne, and it is more sensitive because the molecules are relatively larger and do not absorb into the skin as quickly.  Malic acid is produced in the metabolic cycle of humans when it converts carbohydrates into energy. Because Malic acid is another alpha hydroxy acid, it is another exfoliator. 

Potassium hydroxide is used to control the pH of skin products. The skin is usually acidic due to the amount of oil and sebaceous glands. It is helpful to prevent the pH of skin from getting out of range. This is needed for a product with a lot of acids. Usage of potassium hydroxide on the dailey can disrupts the skin's barrier 

Benzoic acid is the soothing aspect of this chemical peel. It had properties that are anti-aging, Moisturizing and is an antioxidant and is a preservative in a lot of skin care.  The derivative of benzoic acid is phenolic veratric acid, which is the element of high antioxidants. 

It also helped reduce the bacteria that causes acne thus preventing future outbreaks on the skin. Benzoic acid most importantly protects the skin from harmful UV rays. This prevents the glycolic acid from overwhelming the skin which makes the skin more sensitive to UV rays. This makes the skin more prone to sunburns and skin irritations.

Sodium Benzoate is also an ingredient in the first packet. It is a preservative often used in cosmetic products and food. It is more on the more aggressive side of preservatives. This compound cleans the skin of bacteria causing acne, has anti inflammatory properties, and antioxidant. This coumoud should not be used with vitamin C - Ascorbic acid ( which is an ingredient in the second packet) . This is mainly because it turned to benzene which is a carcinogen. Benzene is mixed with other chemicals to make plastic and other synthetic fibers. In the body benzen can alter the cellular mechanism, which is basically the fundamental of cancer. Benzene does this by altering the gene expression. 

THe se once step in this two step process is the supposedly th e calming packet and is supposed to amplify the outcome of the first packet. The first ingredient besides what is Sodium Bicarbonate, which is also known as baking soda. This soothes the skin to relive any irritations and itches, producing a detox. It can be used to help moderate acne and is expensive, which is necessary with a product that has a lot of acids. Baking soda is antiseptic, but not usually used alone for acne. Adenosine which is also found in the product has similarity effects. Adenosine receipts are expressed in the skin. In the Hypodermis, third layer of the skin, it starts lipogenesis and adipose genesis. Lipogenesis and adipogenesis is the making of fat cell, which is important to keep the a strong fibrous layer to the skin

Ubiquinone - coenzyme Q-10 is a substance that is found in the body. It lives on the membranes of cells from free radicals. It has soothing and anti- aging properties . Ubiquinone had many porpoises I n the body that include, synthesizing key antioxidants , and increasing blood flow.

Tocopheryl Acetate is the synthetic form of Vitamin E. If used with Vitamin C it can decrease the effects of UV rays on the skin.  Copper, sodium, and zinc PCA often found in skin care regulates oil productions. PCA stands for pyrrolidone Carboxylic acid. Carboxylic acid is an organic acid that contains a carboxyl group attached to the R group. It is an AHA like Lactic acid and glycolic acid  For the skin it is an antioxidant and anti-aging protection.  

Overall this product is average. Even though some ingredients contradict each other, the neutralizing ingredients may affect how some chemicals react. It is a decent skincare product to use as a booster treatment on top of regular topical skincare. It cleans the skin without stripping it, leaving my skin feeling clean. This product comes in three strength ranges. The extra strength provides a lot of strong ingredients that fight acne from every angle. I recommend extra strength for those that struggle with acne flare up, or small bumps on the skin and especially those with dark marks. All of the listed ingredients help reduce acne and break down dark marks. 

Tran, D., Townley, J. P., Barnes, T. M., & Greive, K. A. (2014, December 19). An antiaging skin care system containing alpha hydroxy acids and vitamins improves the biomechanical parameters of facial skin. Clinical, cosmetic and investigational dermatology. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4277239/ 

References 

Sold , B., & Keenaghan, M. (2022, January 22). Coenzyme Q10 - statpearls - NCBI bookshelf. National Library of Medicine . https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK531491/ 

Shatzman, C. (2023, February 6). Sodium benzoate is all over ingredient lists-but what does it do?. Byrdie. https://www.byrdie.com/sodium-benzoate-for-skin-5220587 

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Ubiquinone in skin care: What it is: Paula’s choice. Shop Paula’s Choice. (n.d.). https://www.paulaschoice.com/ingredient-dictionary/ingredient-ubiquinone.html# 

Gallo, R. (2023, April 10). Which type of acid is right for your skin? our Beauty editor breaks it down. Camille Styles. https://camillestyles.com/beauty/glycolic-acid-vs-lactic-acid/